12.8.07

Ithaca

Ithaca’ya yelken açtığında,

Uzun olsun yolun,

Macera ve bilgi dolu.

Korkayım deme sakın

Ne Lestrygonianlar ne Kikloplar,

Ne de kızgın Poseidon’dan:

Çıkamazlar yoluna onlar, duramazlar karşında

Eğer rahat tutarsan içini,

Tatlı bir duygu okşamaktaysa, bedenini ve zihnini.

Lestrygonianlar, Kikloplar,

Veya acımasız Poseidon çıkmayacaktır yoluna,

Ruhunda yer yoksa onlar gibisine,

Eğer ruhun izin vermezse onlarla karşılaşmana.

Uzun tut yolunu sen.

Düşün, sıcak yaz sabahlarında

İçin heyecan ve mutlulukla kıpır kıpırken

Ilk defa gördüğün limanlara yanaşacaksın;

Fenike pazarlarında oyalanacak,

Güzel kumaşlar, ipekler satın alacaksın,

Büyük inciler, mercanlar, kehribar ve abanozlar serilecek önüne,

Aklını başından alan parfümler bulacaksın,

Ve hayal edebildiğinden de çok parfüm alacaksın;

Mısır kentlerinde dolaşacak,

Bilgelerle karşılaşacak, öğrenecek ve öğreneceksin.

Ama Ithaca hep aklında olacak.

Oraya ulaşmak hep en önemli amacın olacak.

Ama acele ediyim deme sakın.

Bırak, onlarca yıl sürsün bu yolculuk;

Yaşlandığında demir at adana,

Yolda kazandığın onca şeyle birlikte,

Ithaca’nın sana bir zenginlik sunmasını beklemeden.

Ithaca, sana güzel bir yolculuk verdi.

O olmasaydı, asla çıkamazdın yola.

Artık sana verecek birşeyi yok Ithaca’nın.

Şimdi eğer aciz görüyorsan onu, Ithaca sana ihanet ettiğinden değil.

Yolculuğun ve tecrübelerinin verdiği bilgelikle anlamalısın,

Anlamış olmalısın ‘Ithaca’lar ne demektir...


şiir: Kavafis
çeviri: Aslı Özgen

7.8.07

Geç kalmanın metafiziği: Ulus Baker için..

Gilles Deleuze, zamandan konuşmanın mümkün olmadığını söylediğinde, “şimdi”nin kaypaklığından çıkmıştı yola. “Şimdi”den konuşmak, “şimdi”yi kavramak imkansızdır, çünkü “şimdi” farkına vardığımız an, geçmişe gömülür.
Ulus Baker, 12 Temmuz günü geçmişe gömüldü. Benim için küllerinden doğdu. Mecaz yapmıyorum. Onu hayatıma sokan ne yazık ki ölüm haberi oldu. Köşe bucak izini sürerken, yüzümü gizlemek, görünmez olmak istedim. Onun varlığından haberdar olamayışımın, onu tanıyamadan ellerimden kayıp gidişinin utancı vardı gözlerimde. Oysa Baker, hep olur ya, sadece bir nefes uzakmış benden... Elimi uzatsam oradaymış; ama her neyse körebenin kolları o yönü yoklamamış. Az yaklaşmış, eli Deleuze’e çarpmış, Spinoza’dan beride Ulus’a dokunamamış...
Kıbrıs’ta bulunduğum son 11 ay boyunca, ilk defa bu atmosferin anlamlı bir esintisi olduğunu bana hissettirdi Ulus. Onun annesi, Kıbrıslı Türk kadın şair Pembe Marmara; babası ise adanın en tanışmış psikiyatrlarından Sedat Baker’di. Kıbrıs’ta, orada, burada, şurada, farklı köşelerde Ulus’un parmak izleri var gibiydi. Düşünceli ve sorgulayan gözlerinden çıkan bir ateş, sigarasından bir nefes salınıyor olmalı Afrodit’in adasında.
Tanıl Bora, Ulus’un “Kendi fizikî varlığını hesaba katmayan, bahse konu etmeyen, sâfî Intellect gibi” olduğunu söylerken bunun “Kendisinin, fizikî varlığının sorumluluğunu almamasının görünüşü” olduğunu vurgular. Necmi Erdoğan da benzer bir duyguyu ifade ederken, Ulus’un “kendi bedenini Deleuze'ün deyişiyle ‘organsız beden’ gibi başsız sonsuz bir akış, serbest bir yoğunluk, göçebe bir tekillik, taşlaşmamış bir üretkenlik şeklinde” kurmuş olmasından bahseder. “Tıpkı Deleuze'ün ‘organsız beden’i gibi ‘sınırlanmasına’, akışının ‘kesilmesine’, müdahale edilmesine karşı durduğu için sağlıkla ilgili baskılara direndi”ğini düşünür Necmi Erdoğan.
Descartes’ın kartezyen ikilik ile ortaya attığı günden bu yana düşünce sistemimizi biçimlendiren ruh-beden ikiliğine karşı duran sayılı postmodern figürlerden biri olarak çıkıyor karşımıza Ulus. Her zaman “sağlıklı” olmanın “normal”, “bedenine iyi bakmayı reddetmenin” de “tuhaf” karşılandığı bu gelenek, bugün “beden” kavramının yarattığı tüm çağrışımlar açısından sorgulanmakta.
Ulus, felsefeyi yaşıyor, onu içselleştiriyordu... Bir yazısında dediği gibi felsefeyi, onu sadece kendi alanında uygulamaktan uzak gören ve Burjuva ikiyüzlülüğüne denk düşen “Batı pragmatizmi” çerçevesinde algılamıyor; yaşıyordu. Felsefelerini hayatlarının bir ölçüsü ve ritmi haline getirmeyi başaran Spinoza ve Nietzsche gibi, Ulus da Deleuze'ün bu felsefecileri tanımlamak için kullandığı, "kamusal" değil "özel" filozoflar kapsamına girebilir miydi?
1960 yılında Leningrad’ta dünyaya gelen Ulus, Dostoyeski’nin gri kentinde doğmuş olmayı da benzer biçimde içselleştirmişti. Şöyle diyordu bir yazısında: “diyelim ki bu Rus insanını biraz da kaderini paylaşarak daha iyi tanıma şansım oldu”. Bu toprakların halkı, tarihi, felsefecileri ve üstatları hakkında imrenilecek bilgiye ve fikre sahip Ulus’un Dostoyevski ve Tarkovski üzerine makalesi, Rus sanatının bu iki duayenini nasıl özümsediğinin basit bir resmi olarak çıkıyor karşımıza.
Bu yazısında cevabı hazır olan sorulara değinyor Ulus, Dostoyevski’den hep alıntılanan o “Tanrı yoksa her şey mubahtır” sözünden hareketle. Öteki türlü söylemeyi deneyelim: Her şeyin mubah olduğu bir toplumda, Tanrı ölmüş olmalıdır. Yani cevap sorudan önce vardır ve Dostoyevski bunu bu şekilde ifade etmiştir. Ulus, Godard’tan örnek verir netleştirmek için: "demek ki ölmemişim, çünkü bütün hayatım bir film şeridi gibi gözlerimin önünden geçmedi." Ulus, bu tür Cogito’lara “kapalı soru” der.
Ulus’un yaşamı, bedeni ve zihni, tüm göstergeleriyle, postmodernizmin o sorgulayan tavrının bir göstereni gibiydi. Ersan Ocak, yazısında “onun yaptığının bir düşünce-duygu dokumacılığı olduğunu” düşündüğünden bahseder; “Aynı meseleyi her yeniden ele alışında farklı desenler dokuyan yaratıcı bir usta”... Deleuze ve Guattari’nin “rizom”u gibi; ilişkiler yumağı halinde, birbirini dürten, kavuşup kavuşup çözülen ve oradan bambaşka bir ontolojiye filiz veren bir bütünsellik ve etkileşim yumağı.
Bir tür “açık soru” Ulus’un deyimiyle, cevabı önceden hazır olmayan cinsten... Bizi hayrete düşürmeyi hedefleyen, cevaplanmayı değil hissedilmeyi bekleyen bir soru cümlesi gibi Ulus’un yaşamı. Deleuze'ün tanımıyla "şeylerin ortasından", birdenbire türeyen, neredeyse amaçsız; ama sormayan, söyleyen ve anlatan sorular.

22.6.07

City of one thousand lights: Birmingham

As our plane descends, our sight is enchanted by the enormous green fields that encircle the city of Birmingham. Situated in the West-Midlands region of England, Birmingham lies at such a position that it almost holds the centre of what is known as the ‘historic heart of England’, where traces of many a medieval town still remain. This quality offers the city a different kind of importance, for the thrill it offers with its gorgeous shopping centres is doubled with the journey it offers into the depths of Britain’s history.
Birmingham is considered to be the second largest city of England. It has a big airport and an efficient railway web, which makes it quite easy to get around. As we leave the airport, we take the first train to the city centre. We are planning to have a quick look at the city, to breathe its unique air. The following day will see a high-rhythm tour of the city. I would like to remind you that there are three big railway stations at the city centre. This may give you an idea about the tourist flow and size of the city.
Unjust promotional campaignBirmingham is mainly famous for being an industrial city. The city's reputation was strengthened as a powerhouse of the Industrial Revolution in Britain. The city was referred to as "the workshop of the world" or the "city of a thousand trades". Today, nothing so old or historic is observable at the city centre. For today's Birmingham is chiefly a product of the 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries, as its real growth began with the Industrial Revolution.
Mainly Birmingham is marked with being the centre of bubbling nightlife and scintillating shopping. However, this seems to me a monocular way of promoting the city as there is so much in Birmingham both historically and artistically. Not to mention the 17th and 18th century houses scattered around the city; museums in Birmingham boast an elite selection of paintings ranging from those of Rubens, Dante Gabriel Rossetti, Monet, Renoir, Degas, and René Magritte. Housing also a science museum, botanical gardens and jewellery quarter; Birmingham is home to two famous football clubs: Aston Villa and Birmingham City. The famous City of Birmingham Symphony Orchestra, a prominent orchestra worldwide-acknowledged for their memorable performances, offers you an unforgettable soirée of classical music in the gorgeous Symphony Hall. You may get a chance to watch one of the amazing performances of Birmingham Royal Ballet. In brief, Birmingham has something to offer for every taste.
Victoria Square: the heart of the cityWe head for the Victoria Square, which is one of the most vibrant places in the city centre. Crowned with the Victorian-style architecture of Birmingham City Council on one side and Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery on the other, the square is adorned with Dhruva Mistry's sculpture, 'The River'. Everyone is very relaxed in this square, either sunbathing, having a break, taking a drink, or watching spontaneous dance and music shows held in the open space. Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery boasts having the largest collection of Pre-Raphealite art in the world. Do not overlook this experience!
One of the most beautiful buildings in the city centre, Birmingham Cathedral is very close to Victoria Square. I do not want to turn back to the hotel without seeing the four famous Pre-Raphaelite stained-glass windows by Sir Edward Burne-Jones.
Another thing to do before going to the hotel is of course stopping by a pub and drink beer. A tiring day of a long flight can only be celebrated with a lazy ending. Leaving the Victoria Square behind, we head for Brindley Place, a popular waterfront location combining restaurants, bars, cafés and shops. This is the right place for many people who wish to have good food in a pleasant atmosphere. We stop here and sip our drinks taking delight from the enchanting sight of the canal.
Historic heritage of BirminghamAs there is a lot to see in Birmingham, we leave our hotel early in the morning and head for an exceptional experience: Blakesley Hall. This is a 17th century house, still preserving its Tudor style. Delightfully restored, this handsome timber-framed Yeoman farmer’s house is one of the last surviving examples of its kind in Birmingham. Conveniently decorated to reflect the life-style of its time, the house opens a gate into the world of the Tudors. The wood flooring, oak-tree furnishings, painted wall hangings, and specially-designed settings in the rooms promise an unforgettable journey into the past. What is more, Blakesley Hall is set in landscaped grounds with a beautiful herb garden, which supply the owners with various herbs for pharmaceutical purposes, and an orchard.
Another experience of the Tudors is Selly Manor which is home to a stunning collection of furniture dating from 1500 to 1750.
Leaving the enchanting atmosphere of Tudor homes behind, we head for Sarehole Mill, which is rumoured to have provided early inspiration to J.R.R. Tolkien, the author of ‘Lord of the Rings’. A part of the official Tolkien Trail, Sarehole Mill is the only working watermill in Birmingham. The mill we see today was built in the 18th century; however historic evidence shows that there has been a mill on the site since 1542. Sarehole Mill houses various displays of agricultural implements and industrial machinery. Besides, it is located in the exquisite Shire Country Park, which is haven for birds and all kinds of wildlife. If you have the time, a stroll in the park might be relaxing and peaceful.
If you would like to make the most of Birmingham, you need to be on your feet. Fortunately, you can access most places by using the in-city buses.
Our next stop is Soho House. This elegant home once belonged to the industrial pioneer Matthew Boulton, who lived here from 1766 to 1809. This splendid house was the meeting place of Lunar Society – the greatest thinkers and scientists of the age. To much of our dismay, the owner of the house, Boulton, was also an artisan. His works, ranging from silver to ormolu, coins and cut steel are on display at the Soho House. As we walk along the rooms, richly decorated, the house manifests itself like a work of art.
There is the advantage of seeing a high-fashioned Jacobean house in Birmingham; and if you have never seen one before, you must head for Aston Hall. This house dates back to 1618 and boasts of unimaginably beautiful plasterwork, ceilings and exquisite friezes, a magnificent carved oak staircase and a spectacular Long Gallery. The textiles, furniture and paintings are a distinct pleasure to look at.
As the sun sets out to wane, we prepare our minds for a romantic evening and head for the canal to take a boat tour along. Just beside the Brindley Place, there are many boats moored waiting to take passengers on a sweet cruise along the canal. I think it is the best thing to do in order to relax after a tiring day, before hitting the shops.
As our boat sails on accompanied by ducks by the canal, we are charmed by the reflection of cloudy skies on the water.
Unlimited shoppingThere is no limit to shopping in Birmingham. The main street where the shops are located and people flock all day long is New Street. You may find expensive and chic shops side-by-side with the moderate ones. This means shopping for everyone! If you are not yet a shopaholic on your way to Birmingham, you will become one!
Besides moderate shopping centres such as Pallasades and Mailbox, Birmingham has one of the biggest shopping centres in Europe: Bullring. Built at a cost of over £500 million, Bullring brings over 26 football pitches worth of shops, boutiques and restaurants into the centre of town. Situated just at the opposite of the medieval church of St. Martin, Bullring creates a unique effect with its striking contemporary architecture.
Rubens, locomotives and precious gemsAnother day in Birmingham must be devoted to museums. Fascinating with its rich collection ranging from Rubens, Gainsborough, Turner and Rossetti to Monet, Renoir, Degas, Van Gogh, Picasso, and Magritte; the Barber Institute of Fine Arts should not be overlooked. Besides key paintings, the institute also offers a regular programme of exhibitions and concerts.
A must-visit museum is Think-tank science museum in Birmingham, renowned as an industrial city. This is a truly modern museum where visitors can investigate everything from locomotives and space travel to intestines and robots. I highly recommend you to take a tour of the night sky in the amazing digital planetarium. It is a matchless experience.
Seductive with the name for the ladies, the Jewellery Quarter is a unique area, which dates back to 250 years. Home to 400 jewellery businesses, the quarter has been described by English Heritage as a unique historic environment in England which has few, if any, parallels in Europe. Visitors should not miss a visit to the Museum of the Jewellery Quarter, based in an old jewellery factory. You can take a guided tour and learn about the history of the gems and the craft of jewellery making. Do not be afraid to shop in the Jewellery Quarter. One cannot help it anyway while surrounded by exclusive and elegant examples of handcrafted jewellery! Unexpectedly, the prices are competitive and affordable for an everlasting souvenir that will mark your Birmingham trip.
England is blessed with miles long green fields, which is a feast to the eyes and the soul. Birmingham is no exception. However, one must not leave without visiting the huge Botanical Garden & Glasshouse and Birmingham Nature Centre. Housing finest collection of plants in the Midlands, Botanical Garden is fifteen acres wide. The four glasshouses situated within contain a wide array of exotic and economic flora. On the other hand, Birmingham Nature Centre is home to over 130 species of animals, including the amazing red pandas, meerkats, guinea pigs, owls, snakes and lizards. Great fun for children is at hand in this environment.
Sweet world of CadburyAnother children attraction is without doubt the Cadbury World. Here you can enjoy the taste of Cadbury’s chocolate and discover its history and origins. Packed with chocolate, information and fun, an unmatchable experience awaits young and adult alike in the world of Cadbury.
As we step in the magical world of Cadbury, we are taken to Aztec Forests where the story of chocolate begins in the 600 AD. Travelling back through the centuries to the time of the Mayan Indians and the Aztecs, we walk through their forests and witness how cocoa became central to their way of life. We discover who was responsible for bringing the secret of chocolate to Europe. Then we meet Mr. John Cadbury who initiated the Cadbury today. He and his sons tell us about the story of how their family business developed. Next step is more and maybe the most thrilling one: How Cadbury chocolate is made. It is impossible not to be enchanted as we see the appetizing liquid chocolate pouring slowly. A peerless experience and a must for visitors of Birmingham...

City where the Renaissance never ends

As our plane approaches Florence, the city is visible from above for a brief instant. Displaying the city structure common to the Middle Ages, the city seems like a star from above. There is a grand square at the city centre where all roads end, and a majestic cathedral rises amongst scarlet roofs...
In fact it has been some time since I returned from Florence. Ever since it touched my life with its magic wand, I cannot take it off my mind. If you ever breathe in Florence, ever got lost in its streets with the sounds of cello, watched city-folk all night long sitting on the stairs of Santa Maria del Fiore, took a walk on Ponte Vecchio accompanied by a wave of wine fragrances, it means your life has already changed.
The odour of this city will never leave you alone... And nothing is going to be like it was before.

The capital city of Renaissance
When I landed in Peretola Airport, the sun was not yet down. I already marked the house I was going to stay on the map: it was in Piazza Beccaria, the east end of the historical city of Florence. Taking a cab, I enter the streets of the city.
This is Florence - narrow streets, centennial buildings, a secret of art piece in every corner. I am not attracted at all by the modern city around the old city with wide streets and grand buildings.
While the night is falling on the crimson tile roofs of the city, a glare floods inside the taxi cab: Santa Maria del Fiore. This monumental Duomo’s magnificence is breathtaking when flushed with lights at night.
Divided by Arno River, Florence is the capital city of Renaissance. Raised many a renowned artist in its bosom such as Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Botticelli and Dante, Florence is a privileged city dominated by the spirit of art.
As we arrive at Piazza Beccaria, I enter the 200 year old building, an old mansion divided into flats for modern use. I am going up to the top floor using the newly-added elevator inside a net. My flat is a small one opening onto a cute flowery courtyard, in which noisy Italian clamour echoes in the day time. Looking from the window at the lights of the city, I dream I will embrace Florence in the morning. Only a few hours later, I say to myself, to calm my excitement.

City tour
In the old city of Florence, it is easy to get around on foot. In any case most of the streets are too narrow for car access. Even the Municipality of Florence has very small buses to cruise around the narrow streets. Streets are so narrow that these buses warn pedestrians with constant signals.
My advice is a comprehensive Florence tour, which relies strictly on foot. Comprehensive yet not exhaustive, this is going to be a tour into the heart of Florence; breathing the mildewy air of the city reminding one of the scent of old books, feasting your eyes on Renaissance-masterpiece buildings, getting into the cityfolk and joining them.
The first point I will visit is Dante’s house, the poet whom I admire. Thus first I have to go through the San Giovanni Square where the city’s cathedral Santa Maria del Fiore Duomo stands. Hardly conceivable that it has been built by human power, this is the fifth greatest cathedral in the world. The Duomo has the fingerprints of the most famous architects and artists. For instance; the great dome was built by the architect genius Brunelleschi; its campanile was erected by a pioneer of Renaissance, Giotto; frescoes were coloured by Leonardo da Vinci’s master Verocchio. Duomo’s exterior bedecked with green and pink marbles peculiar to Toscana. Santa Maria del Fiore means ‘Mary of the Flowers’. Duomo, as might have been expected, was dedicated to Virgin Mary. Over the entrance door there is a statue of Virgin Mary on one side and a statue of Gabriel holding a lily, a symbol for innocence, on the other. Thus, the scene of “the Annunciation”, and of the most significant pieces of Christian iconography... Annunciation is the scene where Gabriel delivers the word of God to Mary, announcing her that the baby she is carrying is the Christ-child. The composition over the entrance of the Duomo places the word of God above the door; hence every-comer is blessed while entering the church.
The plans and drawings about the construction of Duomo, the machinery used, and most of the artworks collected from the interior are exhibited in the museum ‘Museo dell’Opera del Duomo’, situated just behind the Duomo.
The hexagonal structure before Duomo, is the baptistery, built over the traces of a Roman sanctuary. Believed to be the oldest heritage in Florence, the interior of the baptistery is covered with golden granoliths. Dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, the baptistery features three bronze doors, illustrating the life of the saint. These works of art were completed in 21 years by the Ghiberti. Thousands of tourists flock to the baptistery everyday both to see the granoliths and the doors. By the way, the original door panels are exhibited at ‘Museo dell’Opera del Duomo’.

Tracing the Divine Poet
Suddenly I find myself standing in front of Dante’s house, situated at an intersection of narrow streets. With its garden, gate latchers and structure, the house stands just like it was 650 years before. The impact is so strong that it feels like the divine poet would appear at the door and say, ‘prepare my horse’. The small church, just before the house, is the church where the Poet married Gemma Donati. The interior of the church is bedecked with pictures representing scenes from the Poet’s life. Lighting a candle in memory of my beloved Dante I leave the church...
As much as Renaissance, Florence reminds one of the patrons of Renaissance, the Medici Family. Ruling in Florence from the 13th to 17th century, the Medici family are renowned for their patronage in arts. Many eminent artists such as Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Rafaello, Masaccio, Botticelli were patronized by the Medici Family. You may still feel the spirit of the Medici dominating the city. Structures such as Palazzo Vecchio, Palazzo Pitti, Giardino di Boboli, Palazzo Medici, Uffizi, Ponte Vecchio, Capelle Medicee are heritages of the Medici Family in the city of Florence. Moving into Brunelleschi-design Palazzo Pitti, after taking sojourn for many years in Palazzo Vecchio, the Medici had Boboli Gardens built behind their grandiose palace, equal in beauty to the Gardens of Versailles. Florence City State’s administrative centre, Uffizi today serves as a museum harbouring enchanting works of Italian art. Today a market place for romantic evening walks, Ponte Vecchio was originally constructed for Medici Family members to walk from Uffizi to the Palazzo Pitti, situated on the other side of the river, without mingling with the people.

Michelangelo
Constructed for the burial of Medici Family members Capelle Medicee, is both a splendid mausoleum and a museum with a rich collection of holy relics. Michelangelo’s famous allegories; Night, Day, Dawn and Dusk, are also located in the Medici Chapels.
Michelangelo’s noted sculpture of David is in Florence as well. While a copy of the sculpture stands before Palazzo Vecchio, the original piece is exhibited at Galleria dell’Accademia. Most of the statues from Michelangelo’s ‘Prigioni’ series are also exhibited in Galleria dell’Accademia. ‘Prigioni’ (Prisoners) series feature semi- and raw figures coming out of the marble block. Let the question be discussed whether these pieces are incomplete or Michelangelo consciously left them incomplete, the significant thing is what he thought: Michelangelo believed that each marble block hid a figure. According to him, the sculptor should set this figure free. Prigioni embody the ideas of their creator.
Galleria dell’Accademia features a rich collection of Italian artists. In the small building behind the main building, there is also an instrument museum belonging to Luigi Cherubini Conservatory.

Florence at dusk
The best thing to do in Florerence at sunset is to watch the city from above while supping your wine at Piazzale Michelangelo. Pray do not get it wrong, Piazzale Michelangelo is not a luxury restaurant, looking over the city. Instead, it is a large panoramic square on one of the small hills around the old city. Make sure you do not forget to take a bottle of wine with you, as you set out to climb this gorgeous square.
In order to reach Piazzale Michelangelo, you need to depart from Piazza della Signoria, marked by Palazzo Vecchio, towards Arno. Passing along Ufizzi, you need to cross on Ponte alle Grazie on the left.
It is possible to get up the hill, covered with beautiful flora, both by following the road or using stairs built for pedestrians. This is a cosy square where people potter putter modestly, children rush and skate, colourful vans sell Italian ice cream. As the sun goes down all the monuments of Florence come to the scene. Major part played by Duomo; Palazzo Vecchio, Badia Fiorentina and Santa Croce in the supporting roles.
The sine qua non of a Florence tour is visiting the museums and seeing as many works of Italian art as possible. Besides the national museums like Ufizzi, Galleria dell’Accademia, Palazzo Vecchio, Bargello, Museo dell’Opera del Duomo; churches and palaces boast important works of art no less than museums.
Marking the first scene in the ‘Decameron’ of Boccaccio, the Church of Santa Maria Novella displays unique samples of gothic and early Renaissance art. Santa Croce Church houses Galilee’s and Michelangelo’s tombs. San Miniato al Monte Church, situated on the heights of the city just like Piazzale Michelangelo, showcases Luca della Robbia’s works, ceramic master of the Middle Ages.

Ice cream, music and entertainment alla Italiana
Besides a rich artistic heritage as the city of Renaissance, Florence has a vital social life. You may have the chance to get delighted with amateur street performances at Piazza della Repubblica while you are having your ice cream. Florence is adorned with music at every corner. While wandering along the streets, the melodies of Vivaldi or gypsies accompany your walk, putting butterflies in your stomach.
One of the tourist-ridden places of summer nights is the front side of Uffizi Museum. This rectangle square is mostly stage to concerts, plays or dance performances. If you pass through Ponte Vecchio by chance, you can enjoy the lights of Florence with the melodies of the street singer, who is much like a phenomenon playing his guitar on the bridge for many years now. Or you might get into a crowd in front of Santa Maria del Fiore and enjoy a romantic Italian night under the lights of the Duomo.
Florence is situated in Toscana region, the heart of Italy. Famous for its rich and nutritious flora and fauna, Toscana is the perfect place to taste the Italian cuisine. Piazza della Signoria houses a number of pizza restaurants, with a beautiful view and affordable prices. However, if you think sitting and eating is a waste of time while there is a lot to see; you may find take-away pizza eateries on Via dei Calzaiuoli or Via Roma.
Although the capital of Italian fashion is known as Milano, there are also classy shops in Florence. Generally concentrated around Duomo, shops not only sell stylish garments, but also fascinating house decoration products. Shopaholics, especially for the Italian wonder shoes should spare a special budget.
While walking along on the streets of Florence, I can feel why this city has been the flower of arts for ages. Today a new Renaissance is at hand in the streets of Florence, the beautiful capital of culture, shaped in the hands of artists. Despite its artistic sway, Florence does not have frowning eyebrows and is absolutely not clumsy. Students flocking all over the world to Florence to study arts and design, carry the enthusiasm and dynamism of the Renaissance to present.

Don’t leave without...
• Watching the city above at Piazzale Michelangelo
• Visiting the worlds fifth greatest cathedral Santa Maria del Fiore
• Getting up to the campanile of Giotto
• Tasting Italian style ice cream
• Getting high with guitar melodies at Ponte Vecchio
• Visiting Uffizi, where works of da Vinci, Botticelli, Michelangelo, Caravaggio and many more are exhibited.

30.5.07

The Goddess of Beauty and Love: Aphrodite Cypridis

Born out of foams in the Mediterranean Sea, the goddess of beauty and love Aphrodite was attracted to the land of Cyprus to put her gentle feet on. Today, thousand years past alike, Cyprus is recognised as home to Aphrodite. This article searched the footsteps and the exalted spirit of the goddess across the island.

Across Cyprus, numerous temples or sacred sites devoted to the goddess Aphrodite would enliven with the rise of spring. As the spring fairy Persophene breathed the spring putting flowers in bloom, every girl used to make a pilgrimage to the sanctuary of the goddess for marriage rites ‘to invoke the goddess within’. Exquisitely dressed priestesses of the goddess would welcome the girls in the sacred gardens surrounding the temple. A man would throw an offering at the feet of his preferred pilgrim whereupon the sacred intercourse was performed.
This sort of ritual and offerings actually have deeper roots than Hellenistic culture. The figure of a mother goddess responsible for procreation dates back to matriarchal era when women were considered holy and mysterious due to the inexplicable act of conception.
Standing at the crossroads of Europe, facing the Asia Minor and the Middle East, Cyprus was a kind of ‘melting pot’ of the ancient world comprising many civilisations on its bosom.
Chronologically Mycenaeans, Achaeans, Phoenicians, Assyrians, Egyptians, Persians, Romans, Crusaders, Venetians, Ottomans and British have all passed by bringing their own customs, religion, and art necessarily changing the current, adapting to or coexisting with it.
An exhibition held in New York in the year 2003 entitled “From Ishtar to Aphrodite” revealed this fact with artefacts discovered around the sanctuaries or graves in Cyprus. These artefacts including grave offerings, vases, bowls, and figurines contributed our conception of the ancient cosmopolitan character of Cyprus as a melting pot. The exhibition proved that various styles of burial traditions coexisted even within short distances.
The figures generally represented a mother goddess of fertility and balance, suggesting an antecedent persona of Aphrodite, brought to the island by Mesopotamian tribes of matriarchal order. Remembering the “Epic of Gilgamesh” will give us the initial clue to start searching the traces of the goddess Aphrodite the Cypriot. A Mesopotamian epic, also the oldest written work of literature, Gilgamesh introduces the goddess of love, Ishtar, aka Inanna.

Origins of the goddess
The cult of the “goddess of love” was actually brought to the island by Phoenecians, who used to name her Inanna, Ishtar or after an Egyptian goddess Astarte. She is called the goddess of the Morning and Evening Star. She presides over the birth of both night and day. Next to her is the sacred star sign of brilliant Venus, symbol of both death and rebirth.
The winged goddess could move freely between the world of the death and that of living. Thus, she is also the goddess of balance. Among her many other titles, Ishtar is the goddess of love and procreation. Sacred marriage rites were performed at New Year. Not to forget that this “new year” is not what we understand today under the imposition of Christianity. The new year in the pagan world started with the wake of nature, that is Spring. The blessings of Ishtar were sought to insure fertility in the month of May when nature was in flourish.
Another interesting fact is that the nature of Ishtar reflects the peaceful Phoenecian society in which she developed. All the other goddesses of the Near East and Greek world wore armour, except Ishtar, or later Aphrodite. Thus, it is time for you to stop and think the famous saying of modern novelist Virginia Woolf: “to fight has always been the man’s habit, not the woman’s”.

Aphrodite as Ishtar’s successor
This goddess image, the Greek confronted on their journeys to the island was rather interesting due to its “different” nature. Living in a world of male dominancy, the Greek were conquered with the peaceful image of the goddess, a holy figure of love and fertility.
Not unwillingly, the Greek adopted the image of the goddess bringing her back to the island in a few centuries later in full Hellenistic disguise. This is clear considering many similarities that exist between the attributes of the goddesses.
Isthar was called the “Queen of Heaven” while Aphrodite was given the name “Urania”, meaning “celestial” or “heavenly”. Isthar is described as having wings and Aphrodite travels always on the back of winged animals such as doves or geese. Moreover, marriage rites were held in the temples of the both goddesses in the wake of spring. One of the most noticeable parallels in their myths is Aphrodite’s lover, the vegetation god Adonis and his counterpart in Babylonian mythology, Ishtar’s lover Tammuz.

The Mythical “birth”
Necessarily, the fact that Aphrodite was brought from Mesopotamia to Greece by way of Cyprus was reinforced in literature as Aphrodite’s mythical “home” is Cyprus.
The birth of Aphrodite, apart from its logical historical roots, is related as a marvellous phenomenon revealing the astonishment of the Greek before the sacred image of the goddess. The scene inspired artists all through the centuries regardless of the branch or art, movements, or countries. The magical moment was rendered in the lines of the English Romantic poet Shelley with these words:
“Look, look why shineThose floating bubbles with such light divine?They break, and from their mist a lily formRises from out the wave, in beauty warm.The wave is by the blue-veined feet scarce press'd,Her silky ringlets float about her breast,Veiling its fairy loveliness, while her eyeIs soft and deep as the heaven is high.The Beautiful is born; sea and earthMay well revere the hour of that mysterious birth.”
The word “Aphrodite” means “the foam-born” in Greek. The myth tells us that Cronus (representing time), the son of Uranus (the skies), castrates him and throws his genitals into the sea, which later turn into the foam giving birth to Aphrodite. This myth explains her attributes as goddess of love, marriage, childbirth; and her Roman title as “Venus” which is mentioned above to symbolize death and life.
Coming back to the myth again, the goddess Aphrodite was carried to the shores of Cyprus on a shell by the breath of Zephyr, the west wind, and Chloris, his wife the breeze of spring. The shores that Aphrodite was carried on her shell by the winds Zephyr and Chloris are claimed to be Petra Tou Romiou bearing a noticeable endemic flora on its bosom or the long golden beach at the Karpaz Peninsula with a fantastic scene. Comparing the likeliness of both of these sites to the painting by the Italian painter Botticelli, “The Birth of Venus”, most famous of representations. But it is still another question, whether the painting reveals the photographic truth or simply an allegoric representation of the myth of Aphrodite’s birth.

Footsteps of the goddess on the isle
It is presumed that there were many a number temples or sacred sites across Cyprus devoted to the goddess. One of these used to stand at the very northern tip of the island dominating the blue waters of the Mediterranean that bore the goddess, while another was built at Palea Pafos.
As previously mentioned, in the old days, with the rise of the spring, every girl used to make a pilgrimage to the sanctuary of the goddess for marriage rites and ‘to invoke the goddess within’. Amphorae and ceremonial bowls collected from these sites depict exquisitely dressed priestesses in some scenes from these ceremonies, which are in some sense erotic.
Aphrodite is generally called as Aphrodite Urania, or Celestial Aphrodite to refer her attributes of pure and spiritual love. An ancient site named “Urania” stands on the Karpaz Peninsula today exposing a few remains. Ruins of an ancient marina, tombs, and a fortress are left from the glorious city of Urania, aka Aphendrika, which was one of the six major towns in Cyprus in the 3rd century BC.
Visiting this site will give you the opportunity to imagine yourself in one of the towns built most probably in the name of the goddess. A similar delight is hidden in the face of the fragile beauty in Botticelli’s painting or in the elusive but strong image of the woman portrayed by Dali.
On the other hand, not to forget to remind that it was still Aphrodite to make Paris and Helen fall in love and prepare the scene for the Trojan War. The peaceful spirit of Ishtar, Inanna, Astarte embodied in the image of one goddess, the Cyprus-born, foam-born, Aphrodite Cypridis.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Aphrodite in art
The birth of Aphrodite was frequently pictured throughout the ages should it be on the face of a vase, or a big painting. She is mostly represented sitting or riding birds or geese.
The most famous work of art concerning the goddess is the painting by Botticelli (1485). In this scene Aphrodite is depicted rising from the water with a rather shy and innocent expression on her face. On the upper left, Zephyr (the west wind) and Chloris (his wife, the breeze of spring) are puffing to move her shell towards the shores; while, on the right, a nymph, one of the three Horae (hours) gives Aphrodite a gorgeous robe adorned with flowers, implying her as goddess of all seasons.
Salvador Dali also painted a picture “Apparition of the Face of Aphrodite” depicting her in the lines of abstract movement.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
“And so soon as he had cut off the members with flint and cast them from the land into the surging sea, they were swept away over the main a long time: and a white foam spread around them from the immortal flesh, and in it there grew a maiden. First she drew near holy Kythera, and from there, afterwards, she came to sea-girt Kypros, and came forth an awful and lovely goddess, and grass grew up about her beneath her shapely feet. Her gods and men call Aphrodite, because she grew amid the foam.”
from Hesiod’s “Theogony”.