As our plane approaches Florence, the city is visible from above for a brief instant. Displaying the city structure common to the Middle Ages, the city seems like a star from above. There is a grand square at the city centre where all roads end, and a majestic cathedral rises amongst scarlet roofs...
In fact it has been some time since I returned from Florence. Ever since it touched my life with its magic wand, I cannot take it off my mind. If you ever breathe in Florence, ever got lost in its streets with the sounds of cello, watched city-folk all night long sitting on the stairs of Santa Maria del Fiore, took a walk on Ponte Vecchio accompanied by a wave of wine fragrances, it means your life has already changed.
The odour of this city will never leave you alone... And nothing is going to be like it was before.
The capital city of Renaissance
When I landed in Peretola Airport, the sun was not yet down. I already marked the house I was going to stay on the map: it was in Piazza Beccaria, the east end of the historical city of Florence. Taking a cab, I enter the streets of the city.
This is Florence - narrow streets, centennial buildings, a secret of art piece in every corner. I am not attracted at all by the modern city around the old city with wide streets and grand buildings.
While the night is falling on the crimson tile roofs of the city, a glare floods inside the taxi cab: Santa Maria del Fiore. This monumental Duomo’s magnificence is breathtaking when flushed with lights at night.
Divided by Arno River, Florence is the capital city of Renaissance. Raised many a renowned artist in its bosom such as Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Botticelli and Dante, Florence is a privileged city dominated by the spirit of art.
As we arrive at Piazza Beccaria, I enter the 200 year old building, an old mansion divided into flats for modern use. I am going up to the top floor using the newly-added elevator inside a net. My flat is a small one opening onto a cute flowery courtyard, in which noisy Italian clamour echoes in the day time. Looking from the window at the lights of the city, I dream I will embrace Florence in the morning. Only a few hours later, I say to myself, to calm my excitement.
City tour
In the old city of Florence, it is easy to get around on foot. In any case most of the streets are too narrow for car access. Even the Municipality of Florence has very small buses to cruise around the narrow streets. Streets are so narrow that these buses warn pedestrians with constant signals.
My advice is a comprehensive Florence tour, which relies strictly on foot. Comprehensive yet not exhaustive, this is going to be a tour into the heart of Florence; breathing the mildewy air of the city reminding one of the scent of old books, feasting your eyes on Renaissance-masterpiece buildings, getting into the cityfolk and joining them.
The first point I will visit is Dante’s house, the poet whom I admire. Thus first I have to go through the San Giovanni Square where the city’s cathedral Santa Maria del Fiore Duomo stands. Hardly conceivable that it has been built by human power, this is the fifth greatest cathedral in the world. The Duomo has the fingerprints of the most famous architects and artists. For instance; the great dome was built by the architect genius Brunelleschi; its campanile was erected by a pioneer of Renaissance, Giotto; frescoes were coloured by Leonardo da Vinci’s master Verocchio. Duomo’s exterior bedecked with green and pink marbles peculiar to Toscana. Santa Maria del Fiore means ‘Mary of the Flowers’. Duomo, as might have been expected, was dedicated to Virgin Mary. Over the entrance door there is a statue of Virgin Mary on one side and a statue of Gabriel holding a lily, a symbol for innocence, on the other. Thus, the scene of “the Annunciation”, and of the most significant pieces of Christian iconography... Annunciation is the scene where Gabriel delivers the word of God to Mary, announcing her that the baby she is carrying is the Christ-child. The composition over the entrance of the Duomo places the word of God above the door; hence every-comer is blessed while entering the church.
The plans and drawings about the construction of Duomo, the machinery used, and most of the artworks collected from the interior are exhibited in the museum ‘Museo dell’Opera del Duomo’, situated just behind the Duomo.
The hexagonal structure before Duomo, is the baptistery, built over the traces of a Roman sanctuary. Believed to be the oldest heritage in Florence, the interior of the baptistery is covered with golden granoliths. Dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, the baptistery features three bronze doors, illustrating the life of the saint. These works of art were completed in 21 years by the Ghiberti. Thousands of tourists flock to the baptistery everyday both to see the granoliths and the doors. By the way, the original door panels are exhibited at ‘Museo dell’Opera del Duomo’.
Tracing the Divine Poet
Suddenly I find myself standing in front of Dante’s house, situated at an intersection of narrow streets. With its garden, gate latchers and structure, the house stands just like it was 650 years before. The impact is so strong that it feels like the divine poet would appear at the door and say, ‘prepare my horse’. The small church, just before the house, is the church where the Poet married Gemma Donati. The interior of the church is bedecked with pictures representing scenes from the Poet’s life. Lighting a candle in memory of my beloved Dante I leave the church...
As much as Renaissance, Florence reminds one of the patrons of Renaissance, the Medici Family. Ruling in Florence from the 13th to 17th century, the Medici family are renowned for their patronage in arts. Many eminent artists such as Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Rafaello, Masaccio, Botticelli were patronized by the Medici Family. You may still feel the spirit of the Medici dominating the city. Structures such as Palazzo Vecchio, Palazzo Pitti, Giardino di Boboli, Palazzo Medici, Uffizi, Ponte Vecchio, Capelle Medicee are heritages of the Medici Family in the city of Florence. Moving into Brunelleschi-design Palazzo Pitti, after taking sojourn for many years in Palazzo Vecchio, the Medici had Boboli Gardens built behind their grandiose palace, equal in beauty to the Gardens of Versailles. Florence City State’s administrative centre, Uffizi today serves as a museum harbouring enchanting works of Italian art. Today a market place for romantic evening walks, Ponte Vecchio was originally constructed for Medici Family members to walk from Uffizi to the Palazzo Pitti, situated on the other side of the river, without mingling with the people.
Michelangelo
Constructed for the burial of Medici Family members Capelle Medicee, is both a splendid mausoleum and a museum with a rich collection of holy relics. Michelangelo’s famous allegories; Night, Day, Dawn and Dusk, are also located in the Medici Chapels.
Michelangelo’s noted sculpture of David is in Florence as well. While a copy of the sculpture stands before Palazzo Vecchio, the original piece is exhibited at Galleria dell’Accademia. Most of the statues from Michelangelo’s ‘Prigioni’ series are also exhibited in Galleria dell’Accademia. ‘Prigioni’ (Prisoners) series feature semi- and raw figures coming out of the marble block. Let the question be discussed whether these pieces are incomplete or Michelangelo consciously left them incomplete, the significant thing is what he thought: Michelangelo believed that each marble block hid a figure. According to him, the sculptor should set this figure free. Prigioni embody the ideas of their creator.
Galleria dell’Accademia features a rich collection of Italian artists. In the small building behind the main building, there is also an instrument museum belonging to Luigi Cherubini Conservatory.
Florence at dusk
The best thing to do in Florerence at sunset is to watch the city from above while supping your wine at Piazzale Michelangelo. Pray do not get it wrong, Piazzale Michelangelo is not a luxury restaurant, looking over the city. Instead, it is a large panoramic square on one of the small hills around the old city. Make sure you do not forget to take a bottle of wine with you, as you set out to climb this gorgeous square.
In order to reach Piazzale Michelangelo, you need to depart from Piazza della Signoria, marked by Palazzo Vecchio, towards Arno. Passing along Ufizzi, you need to cross on Ponte alle Grazie on the left.
It is possible to get up the hill, covered with beautiful flora, both by following the road or using stairs built for pedestrians. This is a cosy square where people potter putter modestly, children rush and skate, colourful vans sell Italian ice cream. As the sun goes down all the monuments of Florence come to the scene. Major part played by Duomo; Palazzo Vecchio, Badia Fiorentina and Santa Croce in the supporting roles.
The sine qua non of a Florence tour is visiting the museums and seeing as many works of Italian art as possible. Besides the national museums like Ufizzi, Galleria dell’Accademia, Palazzo Vecchio, Bargello, Museo dell’Opera del Duomo; churches and palaces boast important works of art no less than museums.
Marking the first scene in the ‘Decameron’ of Boccaccio, the Church of Santa Maria Novella displays unique samples of gothic and early Renaissance art. Santa Croce Church houses Galilee’s and Michelangelo’s tombs. San Miniato al Monte Church, situated on the heights of the city just like Piazzale Michelangelo, showcases Luca della Robbia’s works, ceramic master of the Middle Ages.
Ice cream, music and entertainment alla Italiana
Besides a rich artistic heritage as the city of Renaissance, Florence has a vital social life. You may have the chance to get delighted with amateur street performances at Piazza della Repubblica while you are having your ice cream. Florence is adorned with music at every corner. While wandering along the streets, the melodies of Vivaldi or gypsies accompany your walk, putting butterflies in your stomach.
One of the tourist-ridden places of summer nights is the front side of Uffizi Museum. This rectangle square is mostly stage to concerts, plays or dance performances. If you pass through Ponte Vecchio by chance, you can enjoy the lights of Florence with the melodies of the street singer, who is much like a phenomenon playing his guitar on the bridge for many years now. Or you might get into a crowd in front of Santa Maria del Fiore and enjoy a romantic Italian night under the lights of the Duomo.
Florence is situated in Toscana region, the heart of Italy. Famous for its rich and nutritious flora and fauna, Toscana is the perfect place to taste the Italian cuisine. Piazza della Signoria houses a number of pizza restaurants, with a beautiful view and affordable prices. However, if you think sitting and eating is a waste of time while there is a lot to see; you may find take-away pizza eateries on Via dei Calzaiuoli or Via Roma.
Although the capital of Italian fashion is known as Milano, there are also classy shops in Florence. Generally concentrated around Duomo, shops not only sell stylish garments, but also fascinating house decoration products. Shopaholics, especially for the Italian wonder shoes should spare a special budget.
While walking along on the streets of Florence, I can feel why this city has been the flower of arts for ages. Today a new Renaissance is at hand in the streets of Florence, the beautiful capital of culture, shaped in the hands of artists. Despite its artistic sway, Florence does not have frowning eyebrows and is absolutely not clumsy. Students flocking all over the world to Florence to study arts and design, carry the enthusiasm and dynamism of the Renaissance to present.
Don’t leave without...
• Watching the city above at Piazzale Michelangelo
• Visiting the worlds fifth greatest cathedral Santa Maria del Fiore
• Getting up to the campanile of Giotto
• Tasting Italian style ice cream
• Getting high with guitar melodies at Ponte Vecchio
• Visiting Uffizi, where works of da Vinci, Botticelli, Michelangelo, Caravaggio and many more are exhibited.
No comments:
Post a Comment